Feeding Rabbits

A more natural way to feed your dogs

Gentle Dog Food - gentle by name... gentle by nature...
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Myths about Feeding and Nutrition

A good quality meadow hay or lucerne hay can be used, that is not dusty or mouldy as this can lead to respiratory illness. A good variety of fruit and vegetables should be fed daily also. There are some that you should not feed as they can lead to stomach upsets and some are also toxic to the rabbit. Cabbage, Kale, Broccoli, silverbeet, spinach and brussel sprouts can cause tummy issues like colic and bloat so only feed very small amounts of these and lettuce can cause scours.

Some foods can also be high in fat and sugar. Absolutely do not feed these as they are poisonous to rabbits: Just remember if in doubt, do not feed it to your rabbit! As you can see there is a great variety of foods you can feed. Variety is the key. Throw away old, off and rotting food daily as if eaten can cause tummy upsets. Rabbits love to chew. These will do wonders for your puppy's coat and skin , brain tissue development, AND, while eating the whole fish, your puppy will also eat the plankton, seaweed, and other wonderful stuff that the fish was eating in the ocean - what a perfect way to add minerals and vitamins to his diet!

Give this 2 times a week, and a weeks old puppy can even get 2 sardines in one feeding. I use "Blue Ridge Beef" prepackaged and frozen green tripe. It's just so much more convenient than struggling to cut a whole 50 lbs cow stomach into pieces!

If you can't find "Blue Ridge Beef" products in your area they have a store locator on their website , find green tripe in a can at your local private pet store, brands such as BG Before Grain , Solid Gold, and my favorite, Tripett "Green Venison", make canned green tripe.

Green tripe is an excellent source of digestive enzymes, and also half-digested particles of grass that the cow or deer was enjoying. Give this 2 times a week. Don't bother buying white bleached tripe sometimes found in grocery stores. It is stripped of all it's useful goodness and adds no value to your dog's diet.

You can give your puppy beef or chicken liver, heart, kidneys, or a mix of these. I use "Blue Ridge Beef" prepackaged and frozen " Natural Mix " which is a mix of various beef organs, already cut up into pieces. Very convenient compared to cutting and mixing these myself. Give this times a week. Give this once a week, or more often instead of chicken backs. So to sum it up and give you an example of how to make your puppy's diet balanced , here is an approximate weekly schedule: The Hones Kitchen, chicken back, sardine; Wed: The Hones Kitchen, chicken back, organs; Fri: The Hones Kitchen, chicken back, tripe; Sun: The Hones Kitchen, chicken back, sardine; Tue: The Hones Kitchen, chicken back, turkey; Thu: The Hones Kitchen, chicken back, tripe; Sat: The Hones Kitchen, chicken back, sardine; The diet description for this age group would not be complete without me mentioning marrow bones.

These make the perfect "chew" for your puppy. These will give any commercial "bacon-flavored," "dental," "smoked all natural," "disinfected and re-stuffed" bone that you find in a pet store a run for it's money. These raw marrow bones provide hours of entertainment, teeth-cleaning, help with teething, exercise not just for jaws, for the entire body - just watch your puppy working on it , and help your German Shepherd puppy's ears stand strong.

Stock up on these and give them to your puppy every other day if you like. Remove and throw away the next day, even if unfinished. After 7 months of age I only give these occasionally, and only under supervision as hard bones like these can wear out their teeth. Especially this is true for aggressive chewers. Cooking vegetable stew for your puppy: I used to cook a great deal for my dogs, but after doing a lot of research, decided to switch them to a mostly grain-free diet.

I made this switch about 3 years ago, and love the results. The dogs look fantastic, with healthy shiny coats, bright eyes, and they are full of energy. Plus, it makes my life much easier too: However, I will still cook a pot of stew for them a couple of times a month.

This gives me an opportunity to add all kinds of vegetables to their diet. Here is how I cook it: I usually use broth left from boiling liver for their treats, but you can use any type of home-made broth. Just boil some chicken, beef, or even use canned salmon to prepare it. If using raw meat, boil it for 30 minutes before starting to add veggies. Remove all bones when it's done, no cooked bones! When using canned fish, start adding veggies as soon as it boils.

Canned fish bones are safe. No one really knows how much vegetables to give to a dog. Some people give none, and some give a mix of all of the above blended every single day. Like I said, I personally feed vegetable stew to my dogs about twice a month.

I don't necessarily use ALL of the above ingredients every time, but try to add the majority of them. You can store this stew in refrigerator for up to days, and feed every day to your puppy while you have it.

No harm can be dome with this. The amount to feed is about 1 soup ladle full at 8 weeks, 2 at 10 weeks, 3 at 12 weeks, 4 at 6 months to adult. I use all the same types of food as for the younger puppy, except that I substitute some of the breakfasts for meaty options.

By 8 months of age, the puppy gets cottage cheese mix about once a week, and the same is true for "The Honest Kitchen" food. Keep increasing the amount of food gradually, and keep watching your puppy's weight. You should be able to feel his ribs very easily, and see the two - three last ribs simply by looking at your puppy.

If you don't see them, or if you feel a layer of fat as you run your fingers over his ribs, decrease the amount of food per feeding. It will take about a week before you can see the results. If there is no change after a week, decrease the amount some more.

The same way, if you start seeing all the ribs when looking at your puppy, increase the amount of food per feeding and see if there is a change in about a week.

It's impossible to give exact feeding amounts for each age - you will always have to "tweak" them, all along watching your dog's condition closely. Same with the ideal weight for a puppy of a certain age.

There is no such thing. Some puppies have stronger bone and are heavier, some puppies are taller, etc. We never go by a specific weight for a puppy - we only watch his physical condition and adjust the amounts of food accordingly. Here is an approximate balanced feeding schedule: However, depending on the individual dog and situation, there are many times when we supplement the dog's raw diet with some kibble as well. There is nothing wrong with combining raw and kibble in the same diet, as long as you feed them in the proper order.

Raw is what your dog's stomach was designed to digest, as a result raw food is processed and digested quickly and efficiently through your dog's digestive tract. If you chose to feed raw and kibble, do not feed both raw and kibble together, and do not feed kibble immediately followed by raw. This is a common mistake, following a bowl of kibble with some raw 'dessert', but when fed in this order the raw food gets backed up in the digestive tract behind the slower processing kibble, and remains in the stomach for a much longer period of time that it otherwise would.

This extended time can result in a buildup of bacteria that is not healthy for your dog. Better to either feed raw followed by kibble, or to feed in separate meals - raw one meal, kibble in a se per ate meal altogether. We have given your new pup the best start possible in life, and we highly recommend you continue your pup's health and hip supplement support, from the time they arrive home to you, on both NuVet Plus to support your pup's immune system for optimal health, and NuJoint Plus to help reduce the risk of Hip Dysplasia.

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When used with moderation to feed the average active pup that this is never really a problem, but pay attention. If your pup starts to get chunky, you need to slow down on the extras. Satin Balls are a total canine diet. They can be feed by by themselves or as a supplement, used to build up a show dog, or develop a healthy appetite for a picky eater. Again, Satin Balls are high in protein and are well used as treats and to supplement to a puppy's diet.

Care must be taken not to cause the pup to become overweight by feeding too much Satin Balls to a young and growing pup. We feed raw eggs to all the adult dogs at various times. Eggs are very good for dogs. In fact, they are the most concentrated, valuable form of protein that a dog can get. Egg whites contain an enzyme inhibitor which can make them difficult to digest for very young puppies, sick dogs, old dogs, or dogs with pancreatitis.

Apart from that, unless a dog has an allergy to eggs, there should be no problem. Egg whites contain a substance called avidin, which binds with the vitamin biotin a member of the B Complex group , making it unavailable for your dog.

This has been shown in studies to not be a problem when a dog is fed a balanced healthy diet - only when a dog was fed no biotin for weeks while being fed large amounts of eggs did it begin to cause a deficiency. Also, egg yolks contain a high amount of biotin so when whole eggs are fed it is not a problem. The yolks are healthier for the dog uncooked, but in the instances listed above, the whites are better cooked than raw.

This is the reason for dropping the eggs for just 30 seconds in boiling water. It gives the best benefit from both the whites partially cooked and the yolk still uncooked.

The reason you include the entire egg - shells and all - is because the shells are high in calcium, phosphorous and other minerals. You can always throw the whole egg, shell and all, in the blender before mixing with the recipe to avoid shell pieces. Spread mixture on greased cookie sheet. Bake at degrees for 20 minutes.

Important information on feeding Great Danes